December 17, 2016

• Cand I moved the model from its storage location to a work bench. The part that had been assembled was reasonably easy for two people to carry and lift onto the work bench.
• C and I spent half an hour
  • going over the plans
  • deciding where the assembled parts went - the internal sub-frame on which the engine compartment is mounted caused some discussion
• Hand sanded the sub-frame and the two short pieces of flat steel to remove the surface rust and flaky paint.
• Applied one coat of black Wattyl Killrust Super Etch Primer to the sanded parts (need to check if Super was included in the title)
• Removed one complete wheel and truck set. Threaded bolts had been used to mount the set to the frame. C recommended that these be replaced with fitted bolts.
• Learnt about
  • Close, press and interference fits
  • Transfer punches

December 26, 2016

• Photograph
  • the parts
  • the work area
• Bring home one or more of the following for sanding
  • Roof of engine compartment
  • One complete wheel and truck set
• Find out C's schedule in January
• Think about what else of the required work can be done at home

What was delivered

• The rectangular frame, made from mild steel rectangular tubing
• Two complete truck and wheel sets
• Two electric motors
• A drip tray for under the radiator. Made from light aluminium
• Two drive chains that connect the axles to the motors
• The radiator and front grill
• The wooden floor of the cab
• The wooden panelling for the outside layer of the cab walls.
• Part of the inner layer of the cab walls. Made from plywood.
• The front of the engine compartment. This attaches to the back of the radiator. Made from wood
• The rear of the engine compartment. Made of wood
• The front panel of the cab. This attaches to the rear of the engine compartment. Made from wood
• A cowl that attaches to the back of the front panel of the cab. Serves as a small wind break. Made from plastic and perspex
• The top of the engine compartment. Made from sheet metal
• Parts of the sides of the engine compartment. Made form louvre vented sheet aluminium
• A wood template for the curve of the cab roof
• Two rectangular frames that go around the base of the batteries. Made from angled mild steel
• An internal sub-frame on which the bottom of the ends of the engine compartment sit
• Four brake pads. Made from mild steel.
• Three pieces of angled mild steel.
• A control panel. Unsure if it is complete.
• Winding handle for brake control.
• Two short pieces of flat steel.
• Plans

Work done on the model

• One of the electric motors had been re-conditioned.
• The width of the locomotive had been reduced by cutting of the ends of the xxx.

Work to be done

1. Some of the assembled parts have started to rust. Remove them from the assembled, remove the rust and flaky paint, and apply a good primer.
2. Reduce the width of the wooden floor so that it will fit through the typical tunnel found on miniature railway tracks in New Zealand.
3. Re-condition one of the electric motors
4. Make suitable brackets for holding the batteries.
5. Replace the wooden ends of the engine compartment and the front panel of the cab with those made of better wood
6. Complete the fabrication of the sides of the engine compartment
7. Complete the fabrication of the inside layer of the walls of the cab
8. Make the roof of the cab
9. Make the uprights for the roof
10. Make the driver's seat and footplates
11. Finish the control panel
12. Wiring
13. Painting
14. The fixing of the bearings
15. Lettering
16. Assembling

Possible Super-detailing

• Add a radiator cap
• Add dummy bolts
• Light
• Brake pads

Possible improvements to what exists

• Fitted bolts
• Filling the extra holes in the journal boxes